The first time I tried rakija I was 18 years old. I’d just started my first year of university and I met a Bulgarian guy who had brought a plastic water bottle full of homemade alcohol with him to the…
The War Childhood Museum in Sarajevo
“What was a war childhood for you?” “…waiting for Grandpa to come back from the market, but he still hasn’t.” “…a war childhood is when you have a crush at school, and she is killed by a shell.” “…childhood is…
Visiting the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide in Sarajevo
Please note: this article contains descriptions of torture, murder and rape that may be distressing to some readers. I also did not take any of my own photographs whilst in the Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide, and so…
Meeting a Bosnian War Hero
As we drove through the streets of Sarajevo, taking in the crumbling buildings and apartment blocks riddled with bullet holes, Al began to open up about why he’d decided to become a soldier during the Bosnian war. “I was walking…
The Beauty of Herzegovina
As soon as I crossed the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, I could tell that I had entered a different country. Unlike most places, where the only hint that you’re in a different nation is the text message…
