Gjirokastra, Albania: The City of a Thousand Steps

Note: The city of Gjirokastra, Albania, is spelt in two ways – Gjirokastra, and Gjirokastër. As far as I am aware, Gjirokastra is the English spelling and so this is what I am using for this article!

In case you haven’t guessed yet, Albania absolutely blew me away when I visited (and if you’re new here, hey, I’m Dani and Albania absolutely blew me away when I visited). Berat was a city that I fell head over heels in love with, and so I was thrilled when I discovered that Berat is actually twinned with another UNESCO World Heritage site, the city of Gjirokastra, Albania.

While Berat is known as the ‘City of a Thousand Windows,’ Gjirokastra is the ‘City of a Thousand Steps,’ and boy didn’t I find out!

No matter which way you turn in the historic centre of Gjirokastra Albania, you’re either faced with a hill going upwards or one leading down. The narrow cobbled streets, where old Mercedes-Benz’s compete with pedestrians for space are uneven, steep, and unpredictable, making a casual stroll through Gjirokastra an adventure in itself! However, while this may not necessarily seem like a positive, it all serves to make Gjirokastra even more charming and mysterious.

Just like everywhere else in Albania, well-dressed old men sit on the side of the road playing games of backgammon while kittens chase leaves that blow in the wind. Impressive Ottoman architecture gives home to artisan stores selling handwoven carpets, the double-headed Albanian eagle is everywhere, and beyond all this are the looming mountains in the distance, ready to protect the city from intruders.

Are you intrigued yet? If you are, then be sure to read on for my complete guide to Gjirokastra, Albania.

In this guide I have included things to know before you visit, on how to get there, where to stay in Gjirokastra, and of course all of the best things to do in Gjirokastra, Albania.

Gjirokastra, Albania – A Complete Guide

Gjirokastra, Albania – Know before you go

The currency in Albania is the Albanian Lek (ALL). 

Public transport in Albania is notoriously unreliable and you will not find online timetables, nor can you buy bus tickets in advance. Bus stops are not always signposted but locals are always very happy to help if you are lost! Usually your hostel or guesthouse will have a printed bus timetable.

Much like the rest of Albania, Gjirokastra is extremely safe. Petty crime and violence are practically unheard of in Albania. If you want to know more then I wrote an entire article about safety in Albania here!

Albanian people are hands down the friendliest people I’ve ever met on my travels. You will be offered food, raki and taught how to do the traditional Albanian dance!

Gjirokastra Albania is incredibly cheap. A coffee will cost around 40 cents, you can get a meal in a nice restaurant for 3 EUR.

The Albanian language is shqip and it is different to any language you’ve ever heard before! While many Albanians in hospitality speak English, speaking Italian is your best bet as most Albanians (even the older generations) speak Italian. Albanians also nod their head ‘yes’ when they mean ‘no’!

You should always carry cash with you. Not many places in Gjirokastra Albania (or most of Albania for that matter!) accept card, and ATMs are often Visa or Mastercard, not both.

The Best Things to Do in Gjirokastra Albania

1. Get Lost

Nope – I’m not being rude! Like most European old towns, one of the best things to do in Gjirokastra is to just wander around the cobbled streets, going wherever the wind takes you.

As you admire the impressive Ottoman architecture, take some time to venture into the numerous artisan shops that line the streets of the old city. There, you’ll find an abundance of handmade souvenirs, including traditional Albanian carpets, called qilim, embroidered purses and jewellery. 

It’s also a good idea to stop for a Turkish coffee. Turkish coffee is my favourite coffee ever. It’s thick, rich and strong, and the Gjirokastra’s Ottoman past has ensured a healthy supply of Turkish coffee wherever you go.

2. Skendulate House

One of the most popular things to do in Gjirokastra is to visit Skendulate House. Skendulate House is the home of the Skenduli family and has been for over 250 years. Although it was taken from them during Communism, it has since been returned to them and the family take great pride in showing tourists around their home, which has been styled as a sort of ethnographic museum. After paying the 1.60 EUR entrance fee, somebody from the family will give you a guided tour around the whole building, explaining how the family lived in days gone by and what each room would have been used for.

While the decor and layout is similar to those in other ethnographic museums in the region, it is wonderful to be shown around by somebody from the family who have lived in the house for generations and learn about how Albanian families traditionally lived.

3. Gjirokastra Fortress and Castle

Ah, would it really be an Albanian city without an impressive fortress?

Gjorkastra fortress and castle are just a short walk uphill from the city centre, and even if you’re not a history buff with an interest in castles, they are still worth visiting for the panoramic views over the city! The castle itself has been preserved beautifully, with a lot of military tanks on display (if this interests you then there is also a military museum up there with artefacts and memorabilia), and even a recovered US Air Force jet that was shot down during the communist era!

To get into the castle and grounds, there is a 1.60 EUR fee.

4. Go off-roading

The best things in Albania can only be discovered if you go off the beaten track, and luckily, our hostel owners knew exactly where to go! During my stay at Stone City Hostel, one of the owners, Brenna, took us our in her 4X4 to visit a whole host of places that can only be reached by going off-road.

We spent the morning visiting an old monastery, the historic archaeological site of Adrianopolis from the 2nd century AD, and some wonderful secret waterfalls. Unfortunately, after enjoying a hearty lunch in a small mountain village, Brenna’s car broke down and so we were unable to visit the other sites that she’d intended on showing us, but we still had a wonderful day and I highly recommend doing this tour if you find yourself staying at Stone City Hostel!

5. Take part in a walking tour

While I’m sure there are an abundance of guided walking tours in the historic city of Gjirokastra Albania, I went on the one that Walter, one of the owners of my hostel, led. Not only was it completely free (rather than tipping at the end, as is usually the custom), but it was thoroughly enjoyable. Walter took us to the famous yellow Fico House and through an underground bunker, as well as explaining lots about the history of Gjirokastra, which is long and complex!

I talk more about Stone City Hostel down below, but between Walter’s walking tour and Brenna’s off-roading trip, I really felt as though I got to see a lot more of Gjirokastra than most tourists, and this is part of the reason I highly recommend this hostel.

6. Visit Enver Hoxha’s House

Former communist dictator of Albania, Enver Hoxha really wasn’t that nice of a guy. However, the idea of getting to explore where somebody so infamous grew up is somewhat intriguing, in a morbid kind of way. However, Enver Hoxha’s house has actually been turned into an ethnographic museum, making its allure somewhat redundant.

As I’d been to various ethnographic museums in the area already, I decided to skip Enver Hoxha’s former family home, where little to no trace of him remains. After reading some of the reviews online, I can’t say that I regret it. If you have limited time in Gjirokastra and want to see how families used to live in years gone by, I would recommend that you visit Skendulate House instead. However, if you have some extra time and are interested in seeing the place where Hoxha grew up, then spare a few minutes here.

How to Get to Gjirokastra, Albania

My friends and I planned to get the bus from Saranda, on the Albanian Riviera, but on the way to the bus stop, a friendly man stopped us and told us that he’d take us there in his Mercedes for the same price. Anywhere else in the world, we’d have balked (heheh, Balkans, geddit?), but hey, this is Albania! Riding with strangers is practically a rite of passage for backpackers here.

After a moment’s hesitation, we decided to take him up on his offer, and so we piled into his car for what proceeded to be a much smoother journey than we would have had if we’d taken the bus. However, for those that don’t get intercepted by a random dude in a Mercedes, buses from Saranda to Gjirokastra are pretty frequent, or you can hitchhike.

When you arrive in Gjirokastra, you will get dropped off at the bottom of a steep hill (I told you everything is either up or down). The walk to the centre is a 30 minute uphill climb, so you’re better off getting a taxi or hitchhiking. We decided to hitchhike and got picked up in a matter of minutes by a guy who was kind enough to drop us off right in front of our hostel and help us with our luggage!

Budget Accommodation in Gjirokastra Albania

I stayed at Stone City Hostel in the centre of Gjirokastra which is where everybody who goes to Gjirokaster stays, and for good reason!

Stone City Hostel is probably the nicest hostel I’ve ever been to in terms of the building and decor itself. I could quite happily live there! Not only that, but the owners Brenna and Walter are lovely and go above and beyond making their guests enjoy their time in Gjirokaster. When I was there, they organised a free walking tour and a full-day trip led by Brenna, as well as cooking everyone a hot breakfast every morning with thick crusty bread bought fresh from the bakery and sunny-side-up eggs.

They also have lovely gardens, sell craft beer onsite and there were even some gorgeous kittens around when I was there!

To book your stay in Stone City Hostel, click here!

Tours in Albania

When I travel, I always like to support small local businesses and learn more about a culture by taking part in a small organised tour. Here are some of the best tours that you can do in Albania:

Go wine tasting and stay at an agrotourism farm in the village of Roshnik, near Berat. Options include horse riding, mountain trekking, swimming in the lake, wine and food tasting.

Enjoy a half-day cruise of Skadar Lake and the River of Crnojevic.

Hike Gamti Mountain and enjoy views over Bovilla Lake.

Head to the magical city of Prizren in Kosovo for the day.

Visit Osum Canyon and Bogove Waterfall in Berat.

Visit The Blue Eye and Lekuresi Castle from Saranda.

Enjoy a 2-day private tour of Theth National Park.

Enjoy a guided tour of Apollonia National Park from Vlora.

Experience a full-day tour of Zvernec Monastery with lunch (from Vlora).

Take part in a half-day tour of Llogara National Park.

Enjoy a private tour of Butrint Archaeological Park.

Take a day trip from Tirana to Berat.

Of course, there are plenty more tours on offer in Albania but these are my top recommendations!

Gjirokastra Albania | Final Thoughts

That’s just about it for my recommendations on what to do and where to stay when you visit the historic city of Gjirokastra, Albania! There is much more to the city of Gjirokastra than meets the eye, and for this reason I think that it deserves a place on every Albania itinerary.

While at first it may seem like just another charming old town, it has a long and complex history ranging from Ottoman rule to the birth of the most infamous man who ever lived in Albania, and so whether your interests lie in architecture, good coffee or history textbooks, there will be something for you in Gjirokastra.

More Albania Guides

Guide to Travelling in Albania

37 Reasons to Visit Albania

Things to Do in Tirana

3 Day Tirana Itinerary

Guide to Berat

Best Beaches in Albania

How to Visit the Blue Eye

Safety in Albania

Guide to Albanian Coffee

The Perfect Albanian Winery in Berat

Have you ever been to Gjirokastra? What did you think? Did I miss out one of the best things to do in the city? Please let me know your thoughts in the comments below! 

xoxo

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