Before I visited Palermo, Sicily, I hadn’t heard anything good.
‘It’s big, it’s ugly and it’s dirty,’ was all that people said to me.
Great, I thought.
I hate big cities and ugly architecture, and while a bit of trash doesn’t bother me, I don’t want to be wading through the stuff as I go about my day.
Not feeling overly enthused about my visit to the capital of Sicily, I booked 3 nights in the only hostel I could find with good reviews and resigned myself to a mediocre few days.
Oh boy was I in for a ride.
Those three nights in Palermo turned into two months, and I found myself falling absolutely head over heels in love with the capital of Sicily. I honestly believe that Sicily in general does not get enough love from tourists, and that Palermo itself does not deserve the bad reputation that it has. In this article I will address some common criticisms of Palermo, Sicily before giving you six reasons why you should visit Palermo, Sicily right now!
So, why should you visit the Capital of Sicily and are ALL the haters wrong?
Misconceptions about Palermo, Sicily
This may seem like a strange starting point, but as I went into my Palermo trip with nothing but negative reviews buzzing around my mind, I couldn’t help but be looking out for the things that people had mentioned. I also pride myself on being honest with you guys, and if I were to tell you that Palermo is totally without problems then I’d be lying. Palermo is not a perfect city, so let’s address some of the common criticisms that people have of Palermo, Sicily…
‘Palermo is ugly’
I have been to some ugly cities. Phnom Penh in Cambodia, Chisinau in Moldova, Tirana in Albania. Berlin. Belgrade.
The list goes on.
However, let me tell you right now, on record, that if there is an ugly city in Italy, I haven’t seen it. Sicily’s capital may not rival the Amalfi Coast when it comes to aesthetics, but it is far from ugly.
Sure, the buildings may need a lick of paint here and there, but that dilapidated feel is all part of Palermo’s charm.
The city of Palermo isn’t polished but it is real, and let us not forget that there is still magnificent architecture underneath that peeling paint.
Whether your idea of beauty is narrow cobbled streets filled with hole in the wall restaurants or breathtaking UNESCO churches, Palermo Sicily has got you covered.
If you prefer nature then Monte Pellegrino is just a stone’s throw away, and if you’re a beach bum then there are countless white sand beaches with crystal clear turquoise waters just a short bus ride away.
‘Palermo is dangerous’
Many people travelling to Sicily question where Sicily is safe.
Is Palermo dangerous?
No.
Thirty years ago the Mafia were a real presence in the city of Palermo, Sicily, and tourists were not advised to go there. These days however, the Mafia do not pose an issue. Of course, in every country there are organised criminals working behind the scenes, but, just like any other city, tourists are largely not affected by this and you will not be caught in the crossfire of a Mafia war on your weekly trip to the market.
If you’re asking yourself ‘is it safe to visit Palermo?’ then the one thing that I would advise you to watch out for in the city of Palermo is pickpocketing.
Some of the crowded party hubs such as La Vucciria unfortunately attract pickpockets, and I witnessed one girl in particular sidling up to unassuming men and attempting to take their phones and wallets.
As with anywhere, keep a close eye (and hand!) on your belongings (this means not leaving your iPhone in your back pocket!!) and you will be fine. I guarantee that Paris and Barcelona have more of a pickpocketing problem than Palermo.
‘Palermo is dirty’
You will see some trash bags on the side of the road when driving in and out of Palermo, which is an unfortunate problem in Sicily as a whole.
However, for the most part, Palermo is not a dirty city.
Although there is quite a lot of graffiti on the walls around the old city that you do not see in other Sicilian cities such as Catania, graffiti does not equal dirt.
You can call me crazy but I didn’t have a problem with the graffiti in Palermo. Just as with the peeling paint, Palermo’s graffiti is all part of its charm, and if you are able to see that then you are halfway there in your understanding of Palermo.
Palermo may not be up to Singaporean standards of cleanliness, but it is far cleaner than cities such as Marrakech or Hanoi.
Palermo, Sicily – 6 Reasons to Visit Sicily’s Capital City
1. The Vibe
Palermo has a vibe quite unlike anywhere else that I’ve been before.
Locals told me more than once that Palermo, as well as being the capital of Sicily, is also its soul, and I can’t disagree.
In Palermo you will find all kinds of people living alongside one another, and the city never seems to sleep. 5am on a Wednesday is no different to the same time on a Saturday, with La Vucciria buzzing until dawn with street food vendors and dive bars.
Everything in Palermo is exaggerated and crazy, from the traffic to the food (more on that later), and even the locals themselves.
Palermo locals embody what non-Italians typically think of when they think of Italian people: they are loud and passionate, they talk with their hands, they always seem as though they are arguing with each other, and they don’t really give a damn about the rules.
In Palermo, if you’re annoyed with someone, you make it known. If you want to park somewhere but the only option is to block in another driver, you do it. If you’ve been waiting in line for the toilet for too long, you kick the stall door to let the occupant know that you’re getting impatient. If you’re a shopkeeper or a waiter and finding the correct change is posing too much of a problem, you just round it up. Or down. Whatever’s easiest.
All of this may sound a little uncomfortable or strange, but after just a few days in Palermo, I was beginning to learn the ways of the city and I actually really enjoyed the ‘don’t give a f-ck’ attitude. You may benefit from being a little streetwise if you plan to visit Palermo, but if you don’t mind the sheer wackiness of it all then Palermo Sicily is a city where you will thrive.
2. Palermo Street Food
Palermo’s street food has been named the best in Europe but it isn’t always for the fainthearted. It is not unusual to see ‘innards’ written on restaurant menus, sheep’s intestines being grilled by the side of the road, or pots of spleen, lung and trachea being stirred up and scooped onto sandwiches (these greasy sandwiches, known as Pane con la Milza or Pane ca’ Meusa, are perfect for the end of a drunk night out or the next day to help with the hangover!).
I personally tried all of the above, and aside from the cartilage that was served up to me on my plate of ‘innards,’ I loved every single one. The only peculiar street food that I didn’t get a chance to try in Palermo was frittula, which is essentially the waste left over from mechanically processed calves (think ground bones, scrap meat and cartillege) mixed with lard and ladled onto a sandwich. Yum!
For those who are not so adventurous but still want to sample Palermo’s street food, you can’t miss arancini (deep fried rice balls stuffed with anything from ragu to spinach and cheese), chick pea fritters and potato croquettes (which are often served on bread – think of it as the Sicilian chip butty).
Also native to Sicily are cannoli (cannolo is the singular form of the word) – cannoli are tubes filled with ricotta cheese and sprinkled with pistachio (the classic ones anyway – they are available in a multitude of flavours) and they are the perfect indulgence, not to be missed if you have a sweet tooth.
If you’re keen to experience Palermo’s traditional cuisine with a local then I highly recommend doing a street food tour with Streaty. The owner of Streaty, Marco, is Palermo born and bred and one of the best tour guides I’ve come across!
You can also try a market tour and cooking class in a local’s home if you fancy getting really stuck in.
More local specialities are Pasta alla Norma, which is a traditional Sicilian pasta made with tomato and eggplant, Pasta al Pesce Spada (swordfish pasta), or Sfincione which is a kind of pizza bread (although don’t call it that to any Sicilians!).
For me, the best thing about street food in Palermo is that not only is it extremely cheap and can be found absolutely everywhere, but that you can guarantee that you are getting a real Sicilian experience when you eat it.
Street food in Palermo has not changed to accommodate squeamish tourists, and while the hygiene conditions may be a little questionable and the ingredients might not quite be what we are used to, the street food alone is a good enough reason to visit Palermo, Sicily.
If you’re curious about more Sicilian foods then be sure to check out my article here!
3. Palermo Nightlife
Techno nightclubs are honestly my idea of hell on earth, but as I am aware that I seem to be in the minority with this opinion, I should tell you that Palermo has a handful of techno clubs that the locals rave about, such as MOB and Country DiscoClub.
However, my regular haunt when it came to Palermo nightlife was La Vucciria.
Back in the days when the mafia were running rampant, La Vucciria was a bit of a no-go zone.
However, while it is definitely still a little seedy, I could not get enough of it.
During the daytime, La Vucciria is a quiet marketplace with a handful of stalls selling fresh produce, household appliances and tacky souvenirs.
At night, however, is when La Vucciria comes alive, and the bars along the cobbled streets all throw open their doors, local vendors set up even more street food stalls, and restaurants display their daily specials on blackboards outside.
In La Vucciria you will find every kind of person imaginable. From artists to musicians, Spanish tourists to university students, hippies, goths, drag queens and a man who likes to cycle around blaring music and balancing a bottle of beer on his head, La Vucciria takes all sorts.
La Vucciria is home to anyone and everyone, and this strange mismatch of people all party alongside one another on the cobbled streets until the sun comes up.
La Vucciria is so friendly that my friend and I had a joke that we couldn’t have one night out without making several new Facebook friends and being invited on a trip somewhere, and every night for almost two weeks this is exactly what happened!
All you need to do to make a friend for life in La Vucciria is allow somebody to borrow your lighter and the next thing you know, they’re inviting you on a trip to San Vito Lo Capo, writing down their home address and telling you that you can stay with their family for a week!
I met some great friends here (and yes, we went on day trips!) and as long as you keep your wits about you*, you will have the time of your life partying at La Vucciria.
If this all sounds too much for you, then you should check out Piazza Sant’Anna.
It is a sort of cleaner, more respectable version of La Vucciria but there are still a few great bars around there and usually a really cool atmosphere. Via Maqueda, the most ancient street of Palermo is also home to a wide range of wine bars and cocktail bars, albeit a little more expensive and geared towards tourists (but we did find one very cool bar in an alleyway that sold €3 cocktails and cheap beer so seek and ye shall find!). Another Palermo nightlife hotspot is Via Giudice.
*I say this because La Vucciria is known for pickpocketing, and I did unfortunately witness this happening. However, in my opinion, this can be quite easily avoided by the following:
– leaving your bank card at home (everywhere here is cash only anyway so you won’t need it.
– having a bag that is difficult to open (e.g. a bag that has a zip and a buckle) and keeping your hand on it as much as you can.
– not having your phone in your back pocket (it amazes me how many people do this).
4. Palermo is CHEAP
People often ask me ‘is Palermo expensive?’ and the answer to this question is always a resounding NO.
I’ve been to a few places in Italy and Palermo is the cheapest by far. If you’ve read this blog before then you’ll know by now that I probably (definitely) drink too much and so any city with cheap alcohol is a good place to be in my book.
In La Vucciria, a 0.66cl bottle of beer will cost you 2 EUR, a glass of wine is 1 EUR and a shot is also 1 EUR. Honestly that information in itself should be enough to persuade you to visit Palermo, but if that’s not enough, you can get a nice meal in a restaurant for just 5 EUR, while street food is always around 3 EUR or less.
Accommodation is also super cheap in Palermo. My hostel was around 17 EUR per night including breakfast which is pretty good for Italy, but if you want to stay for a longer period of time then you can find a one bedroom apartment in the centre of Palermo for as little as 180 EUR per month!
Public transport is also incredibly affordable and entrances to churches and museums in Palermo is usually 2-3 EUR.
5. Palermo’s Location
Not only can you find very reasonably priced direct flights from the UK to Palermo, but Palermo is also easily accessible, both from Catania on the East coast of Sicily, and also from many cities on the mainland such as Bari.
Once in Palermo I recommend using it as a base for day trips as Palermo is perfectly situated to explore Western Sicily. Places easily reached from Palermo are Mondello, Cefalu, San Vito Lo Capo, Trapani and the National Park Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.
6. Palermo’s Architecture
The capital of Sicily is home to some stunning architecture, and it’s historical centre is one of the largest in Europe!
Having been conquered by the Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Phoenicians and Spaniards, the sheer variety of the architecture in Palermo is breathtaking, and whether you choose to wander around yourself or learn more on an in-depth art and architecture tour, one of the best things to do in Palermo is just to appreciate its beauty.
One of the most notable buildings in Palermo is Palermo Cathedral, which has been a place of worship since the year 600 AD!
Other buildings not to miss in Palermo are the Teatro Massimo, which is the third largest theatre in Europe, the Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio which is one of the most impressive Byzantine churches in all of Italy and the Palazzo dei Normanni.
You should also head to Piazza Pretoria to see the Fontana Della Vergogna or ‘Fountain of Shame,’ a name given to the fountain by the church due to its nude statues (not really – it is actually because the fountain is in front of the council building, so the name is a nod to Palermo’s history of corruption).
Hostels and Hotels in Palermo
Lastly, I want to include a quick word about where to stay in Palermo. The hostel scene in Palermo is still in its infancy, and as such, there is not a whole lotta choice when it comes to finding a decent hostel in Palermo.
I personally have stayed in two (one of which is no longer in business), and I haven’t heard anything about the other hostels in Palermo (good or bad), so here I am just including the one that I stayed in twice, Balarm Hostel.
I have also included 3 hotels ranging from budget to luxury.
Hostel in Palermo
Balarm Hostel is not the BEST HOSTEL EVER that you will write home about and recommend to everybody you know.
With that said, I believe that Balarm Hostel is still the best hostel in Palermo, and so if I were to return to Palermo and stay in a hostel, this would be the one I’d pick.
The beds are comfy and the security system is really good (with electric combination lockers and key cards for all the rooms, as well as having to use a code or buzzer to get into the building itself).
In addition to that, the location is perfect – Balarm Hostel is just a few steps away from the train station and La Vucciria market and nightlife spot.
It is on the main street in Palermo, just a few steps from bars, restaurants and markets.
Balarm is also a pretty sociable hostel, and you can drink your own beers there or buy some from the hostel itself.
There is also a free breakfast which was nice.
Cons were that the WiFi didn’t stretch to all the beds when I was there, the staff didn’t organise any social events and the rooms are pretty basic.
Budget Hotel in Palermo
Hotel Concordia is in a 19th century building and rooms have wrought iron beds, exposed brick and traditional tiled floors. It is just a 5 minute walk from the train station and close to all of Palermo’s main sights, including Quattro Candi, Palermo Cathedral and La Vucciria market.
Mid-range Hotel in Palermo
Located in the heart of Palermo, 60m from Via Maqueda shopping street, Eurostars Centrale Palace Hotel was once the noble 18th-century Palazzo Tarallo, and when you see the interior, you’ll certainly feel like you’re in a palace.
With ornate ceilings, stunning tiled floors and chandeliers, you will certainly get the Italian experience here. There’s also a gym and sauna, and the location is perfect, just steps away from the main pedestrian street in town and all the major attractions.
At the time of writing, a double room here was just 68 EUR, which is a steal.
Luxury Hotel in Palermo
The Grande Hotel Et Des Palmes is an absolutely beautiful 5 star hotel in an Art Nouveau building. Palermo Port is a 10 minute walk away and Teatro Massimo is just 5 minutes away. You are slightly further away from the cathedral (1.6km) than the other options, but you are still incredibly central.
The word ‘grand’ really doesn’t do this place justice – tradition and luxury are an indulgent combination, and there is also an onsite cocktail bar and high end restaurant.
Palermo, Sicily | Final Thoughts
So there concludes my list of 6 reasons why you simply HAVE to visit Palermo, Sicily!
I could go on for weeks about this amazing city but I thought that I would just round up the MOST important reasons to visit Palermo (in my opinion!). Has this article inspired you to visit Palermo? Let me know in the comments section below!
Until next time,
XOXO
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Okay, you have me convinced to visit Palermo now! I’ve heard that it’s dangerous and dirty so I never put it on my radar. Looks like I need to go now. It truly looks beautiful. I’m all about the cheap prices too.
I knew I shouldn’t have clicked on this link. Now I’m craving for cannoli so bad! I guess I’ll just have to make some. Thank you for this wonderful post. I have enjoyed it thoroughly, and I loved how you attack those stereotypes.
What an interesting city. I would definitely love to visit Sicily – and it’s seems Parlermo is a good place to add to my itinerary for a day or two. Love how you’ve addressed the issues of it being a dirty and dangerous city. There’s a lot of misconceptions about many places and always good to get some honest insight
This city looks absolutely beautiful! I can’t believe some people said it’s ugly! I love how you didn’t listen to what people have been saying and you just went and made your own mind. I definitely want to go now haha!
It’s so cool when a place surprises you and you end up staying much longer than anticipated. I truly love when that happens! ❤️ I’ve heard bad things about Sicily too, but I had the feeling it was just a misunderstood destination. I’m glad to see you enjoyed it. And I made a ton of notes because I’m going in a few months ?
I love it when a place exceeds your expectations and especially when you fall in love with it when others don’t- it’s like your little secret. Palermo sounds like it needs a chance. Who wants a shiny polished town anyway, crumbling building and flaking paint only adds to the charm. Thanks for your perspective!
My experience 100% reflects what’s written in this post. Palermo is a must see when visiting Sicily!
One of the most memorable places there to me was Catacombe dei Cappuccini where you can find countless mummified bodies. From a 2 year old to seniors. It’s kinda creepy but extremely cool.
I have never considered going to Palermo but after reading this I am going to definitely have a think about it for my future travels.
Great post! You make this place sound so lovely and worth traveling to. The pictures definitely showed some very pretty architecture and streets. I’d love to visit one of those UNESCO churches especially. Thanks for sharing this 🙂
Wow this seems like a real interesting and beautiful place. Will definitely add to my places to visit list. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve never been to Sicily but it’s always been on my list. Now I’ll add Palermo to my cities to visit list!
Going to Italy for the first time in October so I definitely checked some of your other Italy posts too! Guess I’ll have to add Sicily on the list too now haha, looks so pretty!
This was a great article. I’ve never been, but it looks beautiful. I love that you addressed the criticisms of the place. I would love to visit Italy someday, and your pictures are great.
I love Palermo, I love Sicily and Sicilians are so welcoming and patient with visitors. You won’t regret visiting..
Great article! I wanted to visit Sicily before reading this, now I REALLY want to visit. The graffiti wouldn’t bother me either. It seems normal in European cities, now, to have graffiti. It’s expected in Italian cities. The street food sounds amazing (except the tripe sandwich). . . and to be in the birthplace of cannoli? What more could I ask for? Thanks for the inspiration1
This city looks so beautiful! I am shocked some would say ugly. It seems to have a disheveled elegance about it <3
Palermo is rough and needs a lot of love, but its also so beautiful and the food is OUT OF THIS WORLD!
100%! I think you have to really ‘get’ Palermo but once you do, it is the gift that keeps on giving!